How to Remove the American Flyer Link Coupler
Throughout the years of Gilbert American Flyer train production, we have used different couplers to produce the perfect consist. While there are four generations of couplers with different versions within generations, this article is only concerned with arguably the most famous Gilbert coupler, the link coupler.

The famous American Flyer link coupler on a 630 caboose.
If your trains look anything like mine, then you are familiar with the aftermath of being thrown in a box and jammed in the corner of an attic for 40 years. Those link couplers have zero chance of making it out alive and intact. However, with an unlikely tool these busted up links can be fixed to get you back up and chugging.


After 60+ years stuffed in a attic box, most American Flyer link couplers don't make it out alive!
When I encountered my first broken link coupler I hit the web searching for the perfect tool for the job. To my surprise, I was overwhelmed with expensive knockout tools and the original Gilbert tool seemed to be of little desire. After watching a YouTube video of the Gilbert tool in action, I witnessed the tool “operator” smashing his finger with a hammer and the caboose body several impacts as well. I knew there had to be a better way. With a little searching around my American Flyer workshop, aka my unfinished basement, I found the perfect tool combo. A .270 Winchester rifle casing and a roll pin holder for gunsmithing…yes, I am a gun guy.

A .270 Winchester rifle brass casing is the perfect tool to remove an American Flyer link coupler pin.
The .270 Winchester casing has an inside neck diameter (where the bullet sits) of .277” which is the perfect size for the .25” diameter of the link coupler pin. Because of this snug fit, the neck rim also rests perfectly on the coupler frame of the truck. Also, the length of the case neck is perfect to allow plenty of clearance from the truck frame. With a good size base on the shell and thick brass walls, this will provide plenty of support. In combination with a Grace USA size 3/32″ roll pin holder and a hammer, you will “shoot” that coupler pin out with no issues.



The case mouth opening of a .270 Winchester is the perfect diameter to fit an American Flyer link coupler pin. The case neck also rests perfectly on the coupler frame of the truck.

A .270 Winchester rifle brass casing is the perfect tool “shoot” that American Flyer coupler pin out with no issues.
TOOLS USED
How to Remove the American Flyer Link Coupler
Throughout the years of Gilbert American Flyer train production, we have used different couplers to produce the perfect consist. While there are four generations of couplers with different versions within generations, this article is only concerned with arguably the most famous Gilbert coupler, the link coupler.

The famous American Flyer link coupler on a 630 caboose.
If your trains look anything like mine, then you are familiar with the aftermath of being thrown in a box and jammed in the corner of an attic for 40 years. Those link couplers have zero chance of making it out alive and intact. However, with an unlikely tool these busted up links can be fixed to get you back up and chugging.


After 60+ years stuffed in a attic box, most American Flyer link couplers don't make it out alive!
When I encountered my first broken link coupler I hit the web searching for the perfect tool for the job. To my surprise, I was overwhelmed with expensive knockout tools and the original Gilbert tool seemed to be of little desire. After watching a YouTube video of the Gilbert tool in action, I witnessed the tool “operator” smashing his finger with a hammer and the caboose body several impacts as well. I knew there had to be a better way. With a little searching around my American Flyer workshop, aka my unfinished basement, I found the perfect tool combo. A .270 Winchester rifle casing and a roll pin holder for gunsmithing…yes, I am a gun guy.

A .270 Winchester rifle brass casing is the perfect tool to remove an American Flyer link coupler pin.
The .270 Winchester casing has an inside neck diameter (where the bullet sits) of .277” which is the perfect size for the .25” diameter of the link coupler pin. Because of this snug fit, the neck rim also rests perfectly on the coupler frame of the truck. Also, the length of the case neck is perfect to allow plenty of clearance from the truck frame. With a good size base on the shell and thick brass walls, this will provide plenty of support. In combination with a Grace USA size 3/32″ roll pin holder and a hammer, you will “shoot” that coupler pin out with no issues.



The case mouth opening of a .270 Winchester is the perfect diameter to fit an American Flyer link coupler pin. The case neck also rests perfectly on the coupler frame of the truck.

A .270 Winchester rifle brass casing is the perfect tool “shoot” that American Flyer coupler pin out with no issues.
TOOLS USED
Would you have one of these 270 shell casings I could purchase? Thanks
What did you use to re-install the pin?
Paul, I don’t reinstall the link couplers, I am more of a knuckle coupler guy. However, if you wanted to reinstall a link coupler you would need something like the Brakeman’s Super-Riveter punch. Check out Port Lines Hobbies for more information on the rivet set.