Lionel #224: Restoration #2
*I am constantly updating this page so please check back often.
Last Updated: 4/5/2022
The Lionel Prairie 2-6-2 #224 is an O gauge locomotive produced in the first year of Lionel’s comeback in the postwar era, 1945. Like Lionel’s first year back, this is also my first attempt at restoring a Lionel O gauge engine. Luckily, the inner workings share a similar design to my more familiar American Flyer engines and the transition was easy. It was also refreshing to have great parts and wiring diagrams available. Follow along as I attempt to bring this locomotive back to its steaming glory.
A couple shots of the Lionel #224 before being put under the restoration knife.
Before removing the boiler and cab assembly from the motor chassis, be aware of the fragile assembly of the bell (700E-233). It is smart to remove the bell first to keep it free from any accidents during disassembly. Use a pair of small pliers to gently lift up the bell swing rod to free it from the bell frame (700E-118). With the bell free, remove the Phillips-head screw (2×3/16″) holding the bell frame to the boiler shell.
Remove the bell and its frame before dismantling the engine to prevent any mishaps.
With the engine upside down, remove the two screws holding on the front pilot (224E-18). Be careful once freed, as the front pilot also contains the lamp bracket assembly which is wired to the e-unit. Simply pull the bulb (27-3) and lamp socket (78-73) from the lamp bracket (289E-20) to free the front pilot. Unscrew the bulb from the socket for safe keeping. To finish dismantling the front, remove the two screws (6-32×5/8″) holding the steam chest (224E-3) to the boiler frame.
When removing the front pilot and steam chest be careful not to break the light bulb.
Before pulling away the steam chest, gently straighten the handrail (1666E-10) ends protruding through the steam chest. This will prevent any binding with the handrails. On the flip side, do the same with the handrail ends that terminate in the boiler cab. With the steam chest free and the handrail ends straight, gently pull the handrails through the handrail cotter pins (1666E-11).
Straighten out both ends of the boiler handrail to allow it to slide free through the cotter pins.
Now, move to the rear truck and drawbar assembly (224E-21) and unscrew its two round head screws (6-32×3/16″) holding it to the boiler frame.
The rear truck and drawbar assembly is held to the boiler frame with two screws.
With the trucks and steam chest removed, the wheel rods and cranks can now be separated. Start by unscrewing the valve gear screw (1666E-15). This will drop the front of the eccentric rod assembly (right: 224E-12, left: 224E-13) from the boiler frame. To finish removing the rod, unscrew the eccentric crank screw (226E-37). With this screw removed, carefully slide the eccentric rod, drive rod (right: 225E-3, left: 225E-8), and crosshead (238E-32) off the crosshead guide (238E-3). Note, there is a spacer (226E-28) between the drive rod and side rod.
Removing the web of rods and cranks will allow separation of the boiler frame from the drive wheel chassis.
BROKEN PART ALERT!
The left-hand side of the boiler has a broken eccentric crank. This is a part that will have to be replaced. Unfortunately, the entire eccentric rod assembly (224E-13) will need to be replaced since it is no where to be found.
The boiler frame and wheeled chassis are now ready to be separated. There are two screws holding everything together. One Phillips-head screw (6-32×3/4″) on top of the boiler and one motor mounting screw (1668E-24) in front of the valve rod connection point. This screw has its face on the right side of the engine. With these two screws removed, the boiler shell should easily lift off the motor chassis.
The boiler shell of the Lionel #224 is held on by two screws, one on the top of the boiler shell and one on the right-hand side.
Check back often for updates!
Last Updated: 4/5/2022
Lionel #224: Restoration #2
*I am constantly updating this page so please check back often.
Last Updated: 4/5/2022
The Lionel Prairie 2-6-2 #224 is an O gauge locomotive produced in the first year of Lionel’s comeback in the postwar era, 1945. Like Lionel’s first year back, this is also my first attempt at restoring a Lionel O gauge engine. Luckily, the inner workings share a similar design to my more familiar American Flyer engines and the transition was easy. It was also refreshing to have great parts and wiring diagrams available. Follow along as I attempt to bring this locomotive back to its steaming glory.
A couple shots of the Lionel #224 before being put under the restoration knife.
Before removing the boiler and cab assembly from the motor chassis, be aware of the fragile assembly of the bell (700E-233). It is smart to remove the bell first to keep it free from any accidents during disassembly. Use a pair of small pliers to gently lift up the bell swing rod to free it from the bell frame (700E-118). With the bell free, remove the Phillips-head screw (2×3/16″) holding the bell frame to the boiler shell.
Remove the bell and its frame before dismantling the engine to prevent any mishaps.
With the engine upside down, remove the two screws holding on the front pilot (224E-18). Be careful once freed, as the front pilot also contains the lamp bracket assembly which is wired to the e-unit. Simply pull the bulb (27-3) and lamp socket (78-73) from the lamp bracket (289E-20) to free the front pilot. Unscrew the bulb from the socket for safe keeping. To finish dismantling the front, remove the two screws (6-32×5/8″) holding the steam chest (224E-3) to the boiler frame.
When removing the front pilot and steam chest be careful not to break the light bulb.
Before pulling away the steam chest, gently straighten the handrail (1666E-10) ends protruding through the steam chest. This will prevent any binding with the handrails. On the flip side, do the same with the handrail ends that terminate in the boiler cab. With the steam chest free and the handrail ends straight, gently pull the handrails through the handrail cotter pins (1666E-11).
Straighten out both ends of the boiler handrail to allow it to slide free through the cotter pins.
Now, move to the rear truck and drawbar assembly (224E-21) and unscrew its two round head screws (6-32×3/16″) holding it to the boiler frame.
The rear truck and drawbar assembly is held to the boiler frame with two screws.
With the trucks and steam chest removed, the wheel rods and cranks can now be separated. Start by unscrewing the valve gear screw (1666E-15). This will drop the front of the eccentric rod assembly (right: 224E-12, left: 224E-13) from the boiler frame. To finish removing the rod, unscrew the eccentric crank screw (226E-37). With this screw removed, carefully slide the eccentric rod, drive rod (right: 225E-3, left: 225E-8), and crosshead (238E-32) off the crosshead guide (238E-3). Note, there is a spacer (226E-28) between the drive rod and side rod.
Removing the web of rods and cranks will allow separation of the boiler frame from the drive wheel chassis.
BROKEN PART ALERT!
The left-hand side of the boiler has a broken eccentric crank. This is a part that will have to be replaced. Unfortunately, the entire eccentric rod assembly (224E-13) will need to be replaced since it is no where to be found.
The boiler frame and wheeled chassis are now ready to be separated. There are two screws holding everything together. One Phillips-head screw (6-32×3/4″) on top of the boiler and one motor mounting screw (1668E-24) in front of the valve rod connection point. This screw has its face on the right side of the engine. With these two screws removed, the boiler shell should easily lift off the motor chassis.
The boiler shell of the Lionel #224 is held on by two screws, one on the top of the boiler shell and one on the right-hand side.
Check back often for updates!
Last Updated: 4/5/2022
I am restoring a 224e and can’t find a headlight lens. Do you know the part number or where I can get one?
I believe that part is 1666e-20. Both Hennings and Trainz have it listed. It’s listed for Postwar trains but the old parts sheet I have from Olson’s has that part number on the diagram.